SHELLY 1 One Relay Switch Wireless WiFi Home Automation iOS Android Application - 1 Pack Non UL (1, Count)

I installed this into a light switch and modified a lamp stomp-switch for our living room. We always left the light on using a switched outlet so I removed the outlet, tied black and white leads in the outlet together so the switch would have both poles, then put a blank plate over the outlet and used another one for the "shelly" lamp. I'm pretty sure this is okay with electrical code, but I left a little note behind the plate of what I did in case 30 years from now someone tries to undo it.I can't get over how tiny these are and that they can switch between 125 and 12v. I did not use the original software in the device, I immediately switched over to tasmota because I have a small home win10 server that runs our cameras, so I made everything locally hosted.In addition to being able to control the lights with the phone, the main reason I installed these are to save on power consumption. We were constantly leaving the lights on and I have it set where lights automatically shut off after 4 hours. I also have all the lights set to shut off when we leave the house.With LED bulbs I'm sure it'll take 5-6 years for these to pay for themselves, but we are getting more convenience in the meantime. We also have an old in-Wall AC unit in the guest house, I think rigging that up would be a huge money saver!UPDATE: nearly a year now and ALL EIGHT of my shelly 1's have been running great. I apparently have all V3, apart from the two UL -certified I just picked up. I have not tested the UL, but the V3 that I have DO allow you to use the GPIO pins for temperature sensors, motion sensors, barometers, and my personal favorite - a second switch. Keep in mind that apparently SOME of the Shelly1's put 120vAC to the GND pin which would end the universe as we know it at the speed of light, so before using the GPIO pins with mains voltage, use your multimeter with mains plugged in to check the GPIO pins and GND. Mine read 3.3v from gnd to GPIO3 (note: NEVER plug your serial adapter in while mains is going, regardless).After watching a ton of youtube videos, I flash all my smart home stuff to Tasmota for use with homeassistant. One of my shelly1's is working as a light switch AND a thermometer /humidity sensor for a bedroom. THREE of my shelly ones have 2 switches for the same relay -- allowing for "3 way" switching in tight spots (two light switches for 1 light). In an old house like mine, this GPIO feature has allowed me to use one of the traveler wires to supply a missing lead to a light switch box (neutral in one case, line in another).

This is exactly what I was looking for. The Shelley 1 is tiny and works exactly as expected. If you own a ring floodlight and it's hardwired. This is what you need to get it to reset it via wifi, Alexa, or Google assistant. Obviously it works for many other devices as well such as regular lamps, ceiling lights, fans, etc...However, anyone who owns one of these flood lights know that RING never integrated into their software a soft reboot option. So for my setup, I'd actually have to go climb up and reset it via button. Or, go kill the power via electrical box. Sadly, I have my router setup on the same power-line as the this hardwired light. To kill the internet to 80+ wifi devices is a nightmare when it comes to reconnecting.With the Shelly 1, (2x) 3-wire Wago 221 lever nut, and some wire, It makes installing a wifi relay super simple and wiring the floodlight even easier once you up there on the ladder. Just need to lock in the 2 wires from the electrical/power line. If you pre-wire it before going up on the ladder. The Shelly fits directly into the hole of the floodlight's provided mounting plate. Perfectly, might I add.Now I know this is totally a geeky IOT way of controlling the power to the light and unnecessary to most. How often do I really need to restart it? Not often at all. Only when I need to power-cycle the device for whatever reason or troubleshooting it. Once or twice a year, but hell for the affordable price and easy integration and wiring. It's a to hard to pass-up solution to someone in the same dilemma. At-least until RING decides to integrate it into their software or future units that they'll be releasing.I've attached a wiring schematic/diagram based off my connections that worked for my use. It's specifically for someone with a hardwired light. You can also obviously use wire nuts, but that was more time consuming to bundle and took up more space for my need. This floodlight's life span probably wont last beyond 2-3 years, so this connection will be secure enough until then, for those who fear they're not as secure as wire-nuts.

I bought several of these to automate some lights in my house and to automate an old garage door. I am using these with Home Assistant. You can use them standalone and use the Shelly App or even just the webserver built into the Shelly is good enough for simple schedules. I decided I didn't want to use Shelly Cloud and instead control everything from my Home Assistant configuration - I prefer local control over having everything up in the cloud. Setting the Shelly 1 up in home Assistant was super easy and the automations I created have worked flawlessly. One note - it is super important to make sure you wire these correctly. I was testing one of my Shelly 1 on a plug in cord I had and I reversed the hot and neutral wires into the Shelly and it fried the Shelly. Anyway, this was my fault on reversing the wires, if you do it correctly, everything works great. It was great to be able to automate an old garage door for less than $20 so that now it can be opened from my computer or phone without having to upgrade to a newer garage door with automation built in. And being able to turn lights on based on certain conditions has been also useful. I highly recommend these if you are wanting to automate light switches or garage doors.