Sunco 12 Pack Can Lights for Ceiling 4 Inch Remodel Recessed Lighting Housing, 120-277V, TP24 Connector Included, Air Tight Steel Can, Easy Install, IC Rated, UL Listed

I am thoroughly pleased with this set of remodel LED cans. I installed 5 in my kitchen (of which I'll take a picture after I patch up some holes where I removed some other lighting) and it took me about an hour and a half with cleanup.The lights I purchased to go in these cans are  4-Inch Hyperikon LED Downlight, ENERGY STAR, 9W (65W Equivalent), 4000K (Daylight Glow), CRI93+, Dimmable, Retrofit LED Recessed Lighting Kit Fixture, Wet Rated and UL Listed - (Pack of 4)  - also super pleased with those - will be writing a review after I'm done with this one.Another tool I highly recommend in order to do the job easily, with little hassle is  ProSensor 710+ Professional Stud Finder with Built-in Bubble Level and Ruler A little background..- I am a DIY guy that likes to do home projects here and there - not a professional electrician or anything like that- The install was in a kitchen where I had access above via an attic- I used the stud finder mentioned above to locate the studs in the ceiling and placed my lights accordinglyThe LED cans - some notes that would have helped me a bit:- The cutouts are about 4 1/8" round. A simple drywall saw like this one  Stanley 20-556 6-Inch FatMax Jab Saw  is all you need. Each can had a round template you could use to draw your circle. If you have a hole saw that'd be even quicker, and depending on how many you're installing, I'd probably spring for this hole saw seeing as how it's inexpensive: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D180066-8-Inch-Hole-Saw/dp/B00005LEZS - the cheapest one I could find at a local hardware store was $30 and I wasn't willing to spend that nor did I want to wait so I used the drywall saw and it worked just fine. Didn't take more than a couple minutes per hole to trace the outline and cut out the drywall.- The cans are water proof because they have some foam stickers on all the clips and inside the electrical housing. Peel the sticker backing off BEFORE you put these things in the ceiling! They're not so sticky that they'll immediately stick to the housing and it's MUCH easier to remove the backing when you're not reaching over your head to do so! Once you get the can up in the ceiling, you can easily slide the clips into place, then take a flat-head screwdriver and press the clips up further until they stop. Once that's done, use the foam tape to cover all the holes around the clips.- The knockouts on the cans - knowing that you'll likely be daisy-chaining all the lights together that you install, it would be well worth it to remove both knockouts on all the cans that are not the start or the end cans BEFORE you put them in the ceiling - again, it's just easier to do it while you have good access to them. Then, for the end cans, remove at least one knockout on each of those. Additionally, I recommend making a trip to your local hardware store and picking up enough of these to fill all those knockouts to keep from cutting your wire:  Romex® Connector - 1/2 in.  - I couldn't find a good pack of them on Amazon and you can get a pack of 5 or 6 for pretty cheap at your hardware store so that may be your best bet. Go ahead and install those BEFORE you put the can in the ceiling!- The quick connectors inside the cans - I feel like they are selling themselves short by not having a good picture of the quick connect and how they work in their description - these things were fantastic. Inside the electrical box there are three wires with quick connects - a ground, hot, and neutral. All you need to do is match up those wires with your standard 14 / 2 cable, strip off about 3/4" from the cable and push it into a hole in the same quick connect - that's it! It was so easy and beautiful not having to wing nut all the wires. Loved this feature!One thing I really loved about these cans was the fact that the metal was flexible - the Romex clamps I mentioned for filling in the knockout - those have to be tightened down and likely you'll be inbetween studs in the ceiling so you can't really get a drill inbetween them. But, you can bend the metal slightly that's attached to the can so you can bring the screws down to the drill / screwdriver. Fantastic!Hopefully these tips will come in handy - these things were simple to install (directions left a bit to be desired) and this was my first time doing any recessed lighting. I would (will) buy these again - excellent quality at a good price.About the only negative thing I have to say about them is I wish the instructions were a little better for those of us doing it the first go-around.

Good price and easy to install.

These are some great little housings. I installed 6 of these in a new room I'm building and paired them with some 4" TORCHSTAR adjustable LED downlights (ASIN: B00ZU21RRS). Everything went together as expected after I figured out how to get around a few snags.The instructions that come with these lights are abysmal. It's one page (front and back) with some very generic instructions that look like they cover every can type and size they make. If you buy the 6 pack, you get 6 of these unhelpful sheets. I recommend composting them.The only problem I ran into on these housings was that almost every single one was bent from the poor packaging. They stuff 6 of these fixtures into a box that is about 95% the size it needs to be. Consequently, the rims of the housings are pushed right up against the very edge of the box, causing all of them to get bent in transport. It's easy enough to straighten them out with pliers, and it shouldn't matter in the end, since that edge will be covered up by your light fixture.Having installed 6 of these with a 100% success rate, I now consider myself a recessed lighting extraordinaire. I have a modified set of instructions. Keep in mind that I have access to my attic, so the order might be skewed.1. Grab the circle sticker that comes with this housing and your drywall saw and walk them straight to the garbage. Buy the Milwaukee 49-56-0300 4" recessed light hole saw and the arbor that goes with it. This will allow you to cut perfectly sized holes that have clean edges in a fraction of the time of a drywall saw. It's worth every penny. You'll thank me later.2. Figure out where you want to drill the hole. Make sure the hole edge is at least 1" away from any stud. You can use a stud finder to determine the location.3. Drill out that hole with your new hole saw. That was easy. You might want to clear out some of the insulation around the hole if it's falling in your face right now.4. Remove all the clips from your new housing. There's a strip of sticky foam inside the electrical box. You can stick this to the outside rim of the can if you want a tighter seal, but using that hole saw, my hole was already tight.5. Slide the can, electrical box first, up into your new hole. Hold it flush to the ceiling and begin installing the clips, peeling off the sticky stuff as you go. This is the part where you'll swear to all seven of your gods that this cannot be done. Here's a hint that took my about 12 clips to figure out. Your goal is not to push the whole clip TOWARDS the can, instead, you need to push the TOP of the clip into the slot it goes into. That might mean you actually have to push in and down a bit. They go in easy once you find the right way to push them. Until you figure it out, you'll want to keep young children out of earshot. As you install each clip, you can push the foam sealing stickers flush to get that good air seal.6. Now that all of your cans are in, get up in the attic, pop one of the metal circles out of the electrical box, and run your power into the light. This should be straightforward. Black to black, white to white, and copper to green. Code in most areas requires you to use at least 12/2 Romex and then nail it down to a stud within 12" of the housing. Check your local codes to be certain. The included connector in the box lets you wire incoming power, as well as power to run to the next light on your circuit.These look and work great in my new room. I see myself installing more of these in the future.