Kasa Smart 3 Way Switch HS210 KIT, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required, White,2 Count (Pack of 1)

This TP-Link/Kasa switch replaced a brand new Eaton switch. It was a third the cost of the Eaton switch and so far has performed flawlessly. The Eaton switch would drop WiFi and the process to reconnect was a pain. The Kasa switch was easy to install, but you have to get the install instructions online- a minor inconvenience. Unlike the Eaton switch, two of the connections are “wire to wire,” but wire nuts are provided. The Eaton has screw terminals for all the connections. I like that there is a dim LED light on the Kasa switch itself so you can find it in the dark. The Eaton had an LED also, but it only functions when you depress the switch or during setup. The Kasa switch is a push toggle at the bottom of the switch compared to the Eaton where the top portion of the switch is on and the bottom is off. The Kasa switch works with Alexa although I had to create routines for voice control. It also works with the Kasa app or the Tapo app. I control mine via timers in the Kasa app. So, for only a third the cost, I think the Kasa switch is the better buy.

This product worked perfectly, once it was installed correctly! Connecting this to the Neutral is key and making sure you identify the Neutral is imperative. When I opened up the electrical box that had 3 total switches, I only opened up the far left box. That was the one I was replacing with this product. I saw a gray wire, which can sometimes represent the Neutral, so I connected the white wire from this Kasa switch to that gray wire. When I flipped the breaker on, it just tripped immediately. Upon further review, I read that sometimes, the Neutrals are just sort of placed in the back of the electrical box...out of the way. So I then took off the remaining 2 light switches and sure enough, tucked away in the back right were white wires...all twisted together with the wire nut. I found the neturals! After some maneuvering, I connected the Kasa white neutral to the neutrals in the box...flipped the breaker and everything worked. Setup was a breeze and I'm really loving the "vacation" feature to make it seem like we're home when we're not. Any deterrence is good deterrence!And to confirm, I only swapped out ONE of the three-way switches. I still have traditional toggle on the other side of the garage where we installed this. So no need to install BOTH switches for one 3-way switch light.Highly recommend and I may now have to swap out more smart switches in the house!

The Kasa Smart 3-Way Switch HS210 KIT is a solid choice for those looking to integrate smart lighting into their homes, especially in areas like stairways and hallways where 3-way switches are common. For those seeking dimming capabilities or alternatives that don't require a neutral wire, other models like the Kasa Smart Dimmer Switch HS220 or the GE Cync Smart Dimmer may be worth considering

Seems like a great idea but because my light is connected to GFCI switch, I couldn't use it because it would trip the switch every time I turned the power on. So I can't comment on its features. But I do use single ones and those are great. Quality items with great features.

This smart switch comes with two sets of switches. Each set includes two wire nuts, two mounting screws, snap-on face plate, wire labeling stickers, and the switch itself. Install is relatively straightforward. I was able to install these in a 3 way dimmer switch configuration and a 3 way configuration. For both, I made sure to install the smart switch at the switch with the hot wire from the main home circuit, rather than any hot wires coming from other switches in the setup. If you install in any of the switches after this first switch then I believe it won't work. Only one switch is needed - the other switches can stay dumb. This also works for a single pole switch (just wire one of the travellers).For the 3 way dimmer, the other switch is the dumb dimmer switch. It works fine after the install. For the 4 way switch, the intermediate switch is the four way and the last switch is another 3 way switch. I also didn't touch these and they worked fine. To find which switch is the first switch, I voltage tested the common wire on the switch (usually has a black screw, bottom right side of the switch when facing it) while operating the switches. The common wire for the first switch will never go to zero (when measuring between it and ground or using a line tester). In my house, this first switch was also usually in the largest gang outlets or near areas with lots of wiring.If your old switch has the wires inserted into a hole in the switch rather than screwed on the side, you have to find a small paperclip and stick it in the even smaller hole next to it. Then you can pull the wire out.The neutral and ground wires in the smart switch are permanently fixed to the smart switch. They can be wired into any existing bundles of neutral (white) and ground (exposed copper) wires in the outlet box. My outlet box had these already bundled together and secured using a wire nut. I just unscrewed the wire nut and added the cables from the switch.The remaining line/hot wire (black) and traveller wire connections are screwed onto the smart switch. There are no wires coming off the smart switch itself for these. I do not believe it matters which traveller wire goes to which terminal. Typically the traveller wires will be bundled into one sheathed wire in the outlet box, while the line/hot wire will be separate. My traveller wires were colored red and black. The traveller wires are screwed onto the top of the switch, and the line wire to the right side.I found the smart switches to be a lot larger than the dumb switches, but they do just barely fit into the outlet box. I had to chip away some drywall compound from my outlet boxes to get them to fit. If your outlet box is metal, you might want to insulate the traveller wire terminals, as I think they could contact the metal box. Setup is very easy with the app. No QR codes to scan. Just go near the switch and follow the instructions in the app. It does not use Bluetooth either. It seems to search for a Wifi broadcast from the switch. For some of my switches I had trouble connecting the first time, but a retry, or reset of the switch (using a small button on the front of the switch) would allow it to work. Alexa integration is automatic once you link the Kasa phone app.The switch itself is not a toggle like a normal switch, but simply a clicky button. When off, a dim white ring lights up the switch. Below the switch are very small reset and restart buttons. Although I only have one switch per three way or four way setup, the app can still tell if my light is on or off.Finally, these have no delay. I have some Kasa smart plugs plugged into switched outlets. With these smart plugs, there is a slight delay when turning on the switch and waiting for the lights to come on. However, with the smart switches, there is no delay. I assume this is because the smart plugs actually lose power while the switch doesn't. I am very happy with these switches. The setup and use is very easy. Install was very straightforward, even though I had not done any switch installs before. These are one of the cheapest smart switches on the market, but they perform excellently.

It was great - until it wasn't. I bought a used switch which lasted about 18 months. I got support from Rommel at the parent company of Kasa. He was a great support person. Rommel helped me out, diagnosed the problem and sent me to the support people to get a warranty replacement. But since I bought a used switch there was no warranty. I saved $3 but lost any warranty so remember that when buying used.

Switch was easy to install and the app was easy to use.

Switched failed after 1 year of use , had to buy another one not sure if old switch has warranty or how to get it replace thru Amazon